Morocco

Even though I could, I will refrain from writing a novel here about Morocco. The country was as beautiful and exciting as I expected and far more naturally beautiful than I could have known. I flew into Fez, which is south of Tangier in the northern/middle part of the country. Fez is considered one of the 4 imperial cities because conquering Arab rulers based themselves here at some point in the last thousand years.

Fez provides a wonderful introduction to what Morocco city-life is like. It is split into three parts; the Ville Nouvelle (which was built under the French Protectorate), Fes el-jedid (where the palace sits) , and Fes el-bali (which is the oldest and walled part of town). The most enjoyable experience for me was simply walking the labyrinth of streets in the old part of Fez where metalworkers, potters, leather tanners and artists gather to build and sell their crafts. The streets are far too narrow for cars and impossible to follow via map, so it was a wonderful experience to truly find myself lost time and time again. I had a chance to sit and watch some leatherworkers make shoes for a good afternoon and it was fascinating. In all it is a city filled with ancient mosques, beautiful walled gates, and incredibly welcoming people.

After a few days in Fez I took an overnight bus to Rissani, which is the last town before entering the Sahara, near the Algerian border. I was met by a man named Mustafah who drove me to the base of some beautiful dunes, where I joined some other folks and rode via camel into the Sahara for a couple days. Camping under the stars was absolutely gorgeous and looking off across the dunes and desert towards absolutely nothing was a beauty I hadn't previously experienced. Despite being in the scorching desert, we experienced some torrential rains while riding home on our camels. The cuisine was traditional berber Tajine, which if you get the chance to try you should not pass up!

From Rissani I made my way over to Tinehrir and up into the Todra gorge to do a little hiking. This part of the country is stunning. The gorges are indescribably huge and provide some of the best rock climbing in North Africa / Europe. The weather was delightful, dry, and there were few people to speak of.

From the Todra Gorge I went west to Marrakech for a few days. Marrakech is by far the most popular tourist destination in Morocco but for good reason. It's a city where it is impossible to say no to invitations to eat, stare, and be awed. The souks and fresh orange juice, snake charmers and entertainers all provide enough entertainment for anyone wishing to simply relax and soak up the otherworldly atmosphere of the city. The main city square is transformed at night into one large eatery, where shopkeepers compete to cook you some cheap, and delicious Moroccan meat, fish and olives! Marrakech is a blast and I highly suggest going if you want to get a good feel for the livelier side of the country. Marrakech is like Fez on steroids.

From Marrakech I went west to the coast, and found myself lying on the beach in Essaouira. This town was a much needed respite from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. Seated along the coast, north of Agadir, which is much more popular, Essaouira is a sleepy town, with delicious fresh fish, and a healthy fishing economy. It was entertaining to watch the boats go out in the morning and wait on the docks to haggle for fish in the afternoons. The area surrounding Essaouira is considered to have some of the best surfing, and wind-surfing in the world. I was lazy and laid on the beach reading Thoreau, and watched everyone else struggle through the waves.

I took the bus north to Casablanca, the famous and largest city in the country. After a day, I left. It was much too large and unmanageable for such a short visit and I decided to gamble on Meknes on my way back to Fez to fly out. Meknes was much like Fez; Imperial, full of beautiful ruins, fascinating handicrafts and a bustling pace.

On the whole, Morocco was a warm, and welcoming place. I felt I made some great friends and was always helped along by locals who have a genuine care and concern for visitors. I am back in Paris for a short respite and then off to Kenya tomorrow night